Change your image of Kabul

Following are a few places to hang out or interesting cultural scenes. For most of these scenes I have listed a guide. Most of them are eager for professional cooperation, so its advisable to suggest some kind of exchange. In the Netherlands you can contact me for more information.

The places listed here may not have any specific sites to see but they’re good places to hang out and catch the different vibes of the city. If you’re interested in tourist attractions please visit the good and up to date Lonely Planet Kabul site. I especially recommend the Kabul museum and Darulaman parliament, Babur’s gardens and the city walls, and Timor Shah mausoleum and the surrounding downtown bazaar.

Anonymous portraits - Soft spot of the Taliban, anonymous photographs, 2001

In Afghanistan, your security is not guaranteed by the State, the Law or any other impersonal force. Your security is in the hands of your host. So always listen to him (it’s rarely a her) even if he seems a bit overprotective at times. Afghans that grew up in the West of course are more relaxed about you assuming responsibility for yourself. But fully native Afghans will resent you trying to go your own way, because they can then no longer fulfill their responsibility (unless they’ve handed you over to another Afghan). If you want to go for a walk, try to get one of your host’s younger male relatives to come with you. He'll probably be quite happy to accompany you, it will save you a lot of hassle, and he’ll be able to tell you some interesting things on the way.

Shirpur masonry team - The kind of people on the streets who'll be eager to have a chat with you and will offer you some tea. You needn't accept!

If you do find yourself in the street on your own: relax! You may seem to be the only white person here, but you’re in a urban and cosmopolitan city. Thousands of ‘kharijis’ (foreigners) like you have walked here before. The fact alone that you’re walking, in a local taxi or - better still - on a bicycle or motorcycle, helps you blend in.

Ask (gesticulating with your camera) before taking pictures of people. Most Afghans like being photographed and will strike poses but you never know, some people think like the Taliban!

Bagh e Babur - The Aga Khan Trust for Culture has restored the legendary gardens of King Babur, the founder of the Moghul dynasty

Up to now the Taliban have not assaulted or kidnapped lone foreigners (they usually strike at more sophisticated targets) but don’t stray too far into neighborhoods you don’t know just the same!

Kabul river bank - The more you go towards the busy central bazar, the less people pay attention to you

Taxis are everywhere and trustworthy; but you must be sure they know where you want to go, unless you know your own way around town. Occasionally they may try to rip you off (try to agree the price before leaving and if that doesn’t work: no sweat, it’s only a few euros). Other times they will not want to charge you at all, claiming you’re they’re guest.

A bit of etiquette: when people refuse payment or a present it’s good to insist; if need be, say it’s for their children. On the other hand, it’s good to graciously accept their generosity and hospitality, and never worry about outstaying your welcome.